On the Monday immediately following my graduation weekend, I got up very early, grabbed my backpack and the Travelling Lemon, and headed to the airport. Several weeks earlier I’d given in to the resurgent yearning for adventure and booked a trip to Stockholm, ostensibly with the aim of escaping the kitchen renovations and taking the opportunity to practice my Swedish. I suffered waves of guilt at leaving OH behind, but he didn’t seem to mind, and solo travel gives one the opportunity to do exactly what one wants.
The last time I visited Stockholm, I did go with OH (in fact, it was our first holiday together, nearly seven months into our relationship!), and we stayed with a friend out in Ålby, enabling us to save money both on accommodation and food, as we cooked for all three of us in her flat. This time, I was on my own, and finding my own food… If one discerns the national dish by what is most commonly available, Sweden’s appears to be burger/chicken/falafel + chips + salad, and it was delicious! After a day of wandering around in the somewhat blustery streets, it really hit the spot.
As for accommodation, the best trade-off I found between price and facilities was a boat moored near Fotografiska. I’d forgotten that on a large boat some machinery still has to run at night, and I’m very sensitive to low-pitched noise, so the resulting vibration was a bit of nightmare, even with earplugs, but I had my own room, and the view was pretty good.
View from my cabin shortly after dawn. The other possibility was a room facing the road, and I’m glad probability was in my favour this time.
Of course, no trip to Stockholm would have been complete without seeing F, and we spent a lovely afternoon catching up over fika[1] and wandering Södermalm. The light is truly stunning at this time of year, and F informed me that Swedes have a word for it (of course they do): draljus, literally “drag(ged) light”. The sun is low in the sky for most of the day, and the abundance of bodies of water and the colours of the local stone create the perfect conditions for reflecting it for even greater effect, notwithstanding the contrast with the blue skies and colours of the leaves in the trees further adding to the spectacle. I thought Oxford did this pretty well, but Stockholm is something else entirely.
No filter. Honest.
Stockholm is a notoriously green city, both with respect to the environmental awareness of its inhabitants, and in terms of the cultivated (and unkempt) greenery within the city. However, if one takes Tunnelbanan for less than fifteen minutes, one ends up at Skogskyrkogården, otherwise known as the Woodland Cemetery, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre. Cemeteries seem to be a bit of (sometimes accidental) regular feature of my holidays, but I’ve never regretted taking the time to visit one. Wandering around Skogskyrkogården, I realised that I felt more peaceful than I have in ages. Although there were services taking place while I was there, there was never a feeling that this was a morbid place; it was more a reminder that life and death are closely intertwined, not least in the case of Skogskyrkogården itself, which is full of (non-human) life that is of course being nourished by the bodies of those interred. From death comes life, and all that, very literally rather than spiritually.
Skogskyrkogården
With respect to more worldly concerns, I really did try to practise my Swedish, but there were few times I wasn’t immediately replied to in English: I could confidently order kaffe och (kanel)bulle, although this took several tries; and when I ventured into bookshops to stock up on such edifying material as young adult fantasy novels, presumably because the staff assumed that I could speak Swedish if I was buying a pile of Swedish books… It might seem a slightly odd set of souvenirs, but I was using the opportunity to stock up on some ‘learning materials’ for language study as it’s nearly impossible to buy anything in Swedish here, even ordering online.
I ate at Corner Grillbar twice, and at the end of my second visit the barman gave me a lolly for speaking (what I thought might have been) understandable Swedish. I wasn’t sure whether or not to feel patronised, but I think he was trying to make a gesture of appreciation.
My (consolation?) prize for attempting to speak Swedish in Corner Grillbar.
I also visited several museums, and I was pleased to discover that I could read many of the panels without a translation! I thought that I did pretty damned well condering that I’d been learning for less than three months. Is it bad that I was hoping there would be stereotypical American tourists about so I could impress them?
Aside: I have a somewhat ambitious aim to reach approximately B2 level on the Common European Framework of Reference for Languages (CEFR) by this time next year. At the moment, I’m probably at A2 for reading and writing, but speaking and listening practice is much more difficult to fit in, even for just the mundane reason that my laptop has no CD drive and my work computer appears not to have a working soundcard. I guess I’ll just have to persuade Julia to continue tolerating me. I’m hoping to get some sort of certification, especially as OH might be working in Denmark (hopefully near the Denmark/Sweden border) for a little while in the next few years.
My last day featured my paranoia about missing various means of transport and feeling exhausted owing to the start of my period, so after hitting Historisk Museet I spent most of the day hanging out in Stockholm Central Station. There was a Red Cross station staffed by volunteers greeting people arriving from Syria, which is a stark contrast to the UK government’s attitude; sometimes I really am ashamed of my country and its government.
I used the commuter train to get to Arlanda, and it wasn’t at all unpleasant! This was a bit of a surprised compared to e.g. London, and it certainly didn’t discourage my love of the place. I was sad to leave, and have had to restrain myself from planning my next trip. Very soon I’ll need to persuade OH to plan the holiday he wants to take after his DPhil, and of course I’ll be tempted to push for Skandinavien, despite the expense… Yes, I’m a fully-fledged, unashamed Scandiphile!
Citronen och jag vid Kastellet på Kastellholmen, nära Skeppsholmen.
[1] A few weeks ago, someone asked me what fika is. Fika is an event. Fika is a lifestyle. I want the UK to adopt fika; tea breaks just aren’t the same.